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December 9, 2009
French Kiss
Make out with Gallic goods from The Mercantile
Knock out a casual lunch and gourmet grocery shopping in a single stop at The Mercantile.

The two-level cafe and market looks like it belongs in the French countryside rather than a seedier stretch of Sunset. An imposing espresso machine, seemingly designed by Nicola Tesla, gurgles behind the bar while mid-century jazz jams along.

Walk up the counter to order up a salad or sandwiches, like a sliced steak sandwich with crispy fried onions and tangy apple butter. Slap your number on one of the smaller bistro tables and grab one of the oddball bottled sodas from the back fridge — they'll bring your meal out when it's ready.

In the meantime, let friendly staff guide you through a selection of artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and one of the best collections of French wine in town. They'll taste them with you, giving recommendations based on your guidelines.

Grab a young Marieke gouda, a fresh baguette, and a bottle of Four Sons Cabernet for the road. You'll thank us later.
The Mercantile
6600 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood (323) 962-8202
themercantilela.com

Price: 2 (out of 4) Noise: 2 (out of 4)
Parking: $5 valet or metered on street
Scene: Wayward Frenchmen, hipster francophiles, and upscale shoppers.
Best bets: Sliced steak sandwich; Four Sons cabernet; Marieke gouda
Hot seat: If you sit at the bar, the staff will give you sips of different wines.
Dinner menu, too: It's still sandwichy, but heartier casseroles and soups are also offered.
Nearby: Amoeba Music; Arclight; Roosevelt Hotel

The Rundown's restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits by reporters, not press releases.
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